Jeff Clark is one of the best big wave surfers and he is known as the waterman. He is popular and respected by all the surfers in the world because he surfed alone in Mavericks for 15 long years. At that time the place wasn’t discovered by the large wave surfing community. Jeff waited a long time to surf in a big wave that no-one dared to surf alone. At last he got a giant wave on the beach of California and the exact place where he surfed at that gigantic wave is now known as Mavericks. In the year of 1975, he set his mind to surf at the Mavericks. After his surfing on that beach now the spot is one of the most dangerous places for surfing in the world.
Here is the moment he described. All the tides of that beach were coming from more than 1,000 miles away and the size of those waves were about a four-storied building. Those waves were viciously fast and they were coming at you with a speed of about 30 miles per hour. Most dangerous part of those waves was that they hit you so fast that you can’t even blink. It hits you and your surfboard with its massive power. According to Jeff Clark this was the situation of the Mavericks at that time.
If you want to surf on those big waves you have to be powerful and strong like those waves, Clark said. You need to catch the waves before it comes to you and then chase it down. Run down the waves before it crashes you down. It was one of the most exciting facts that Jeff Clark always wanted to do.
I began to watch the waves and research it and finally the day came to me when the conditions to surf were just perfect. It was just awesome because the waves were coming in the face of me with same big peaks. When you are alone in such place where you can lose your life, then you need to be so much calculated and careful enough to protect yourself. You are not going to do such things where you are 99% of not sure that you can do that and return with your life. What I mean to say is that at that critical point where your life is at stake you can’t just make a silly mistake. So all you need to is be patient and think how safely you can surf on those big waves.
When I began my paddling at Mavericks, and I remember that the situation at that time was very dangerous because the waves were full and so strong. At that time I had to paddle over this reef and I was battling thorough those waves. After battling finally I succeeded and made it out to the line-up. About 500 yards of the beach is filled with rocks that made my surfing more difficult. There were shelves in underwater and those were like the shape of your hand. Those shelves were looking like an alligator on the water of ocean. Whenever waves were coming, it felt like the tail of the alligator slows you down a little bit. When the waves were coming towards me I turned and was totally committed and riding in the water as fast and as hard as I could.